Landour – A Beautiful Offbeat Hill Station

Having grown up in the serene hill station of Nainital, I’ve always felt a magnetic pull towards small towns whenever I need a break. Despite spending two decades in Nainital, my heart still yearns for the tranquility of the hills—a sentiment my friends find hard to grasp. But to truly understand the allure, you have to experience it yourself.

One of my cherished hill stations in Northern India is Landour—a hidden gem located approximately 6 kilometers (3.7 miles) from Mussoorie, Uttarakhand. Often overlooked by many, this peaceful cantonment town holds a special place in my heart. With its quaint charm and association with renowned author Ruskin Bond, Landour is a haven for those seeking respite from the chaos of city life.

A mere 7-hour drive from New Delhi, Landour is the ideal destination for a weekend getaway.

Recommendations for stay: Accommodation options abound in Landour, with numerous charming cottages and hotels dotting the landscape. Among them, ‘La Villa Bethany’, ‘Rokeby Manor’, and ‘Doma’s Inn’ stand out as top choices.

La Villa Bethany, a quaint English cottage turned boutique homestay, exudes timeless elegance under the care of Sunita and Amarjeet. With its vintage decor and seven rooms, this establishment offers a captivating glimpse into the past.

Pro tip: If you have your heart set on staying at any of these three accommodations, be sure to book well in advance to secure your spot.

Rokeby Manor – One of Landour’s landmarks, Rokeby Manor was built in 1840 and later restored in 2010.

Stone walls, brick arches, wooden floors and cozy fireplaces give this place that European feel.

Exploring the area is made convenient with bike rentals available for hire. One of Rokeby’s standout features is its outdoor Jacuzzi, offering the perfect opportunity to unwind as you soak in the breathtaking sunset vistas.

If you miss booking this property for a stay like I did, you can still dine here at its restaurant – Emily’s

The restaurant Emily’s named after Emily Eden, an English poet and novelist, offers a beautiful view of the Mussoorie ridge line.

You can also try their Ale House The Stray Dog by Rokeby – Ale House & Stübli, an authentic Swiss Restaurant with cozy cabin that serves continental food. The Tudor style Ale House with its rustic charm is perfect to grab a few drinks.

Domas Inn a part of Ivy Cottage, which has been home to Ruskin Bond since 1980.

Doma’s Inn is inspired by the Tibettan heritage, offers homely rooms with bright Thangka wall and ceiling paintings, handcrafted by traditional Nepalese Thangka painters.

The vibrant colors light up the place and the cozy little rooms are warm and give a homely feel.

Below is the picture of the first floor of Doma’s Inn. As soon as I saw this couch, I knew I had found my ‘reading place’. Doesn’t it look perfect to just laze around here with a book and some honey lemon tea?

After a stroll, I came here in the evening for a bowl of Thukpa which is a type of Tibettan soup

Looking Around:

While walking up the hill, I came across Indian actor, Victor Banerjee’s house ‘Parsonage’ who bought this property in the year 1982.

Landour Bakehouse – The aroma of freshly baked cakes, muffins, buns and cookies immediately pulled me towards this 19^th century styled café. One should definitely try the pies and tarts here, the honey lemon ginger tea is my favorite.

Chakkar – an old bridle trail circling the three summits of Landour ridge via an old cemetery.

Entrance to the cemetery

As I wandered through this picturesque locale, it struck me that Landour’s charm is truly tucked away for those who seek it. Where else could you stumble upon such treasures and have the leisure to truly savor them?

I imagine this will be the spot for Sheldon Cooper’s car..For when he learns to Drive that is..!!

Sisters Bazaar – The stroll to Sisters Bazaar is postcard perfect. Do check out Prakash Handicrafts, a store that opened in 1928, well known for its cheese and jams. The store stocks delicious jams of plum, apricot and raspberry. There are chutneys and peanut butter too, besides cheddar cheese, cinnamon rolls and marmalades.

Chaar dukaan –

The path leading to Chaar-Dukan is lined with oak, deodar, and rhododendron trees, infusing the air with a calming fragrance. Chaar Dukaan derives its name from the four adjacent shops that offer the most delightful aromatic tea. Tip: Arrive at this destination with an empty stomach to fully indulge in the delectable waffles and pancakes.

Having arrived shortly after lunch, I only had room for a pancake on my first visit. However, determined to savor the chocolate waffles, I returned the next day with an empty stomach.

Café Ivy – While the regular Char Dukaan eateries offer classic Indian snacks in a humble outdoor setting, Cafe Ivy is a real, indoor, sit down, full menu restaurant.

Made with recycled wood, it is modern and minimalist in its approach.

The café, overlooking a valley, offers a view of sprawling greenery covered in mist. I went straight to the balcony because who wouldn’t?

Cloud’s End – A visual treat with its thick Oak and Deodar forests, cloud’s end can be reached through the Hathipaon road from Happy Valley road. Trust me when I say that pictures don’t do justice to this place.

Lal Tibba – Known as ‘red hill,’ Landour is renowned for its sunrise and sunset viewpoints. I had the privilege of accessing a small café’s terrace, where they provided binoculars for a closer look at the snow-capped mountains. Some moments are truly unforgettable and deserve to be etched in the memory forever, and this was undoubtedly one of those places.

Sheduo Choephelling Monastery – Further up, you will find this peaceful monastery, it is said that the 15th Dalai Lama set up this place after which he moved to Dharamshala.

The Corn Village of Sainji – With about 18 -20 houses, only 20 km away from the famous tourist destination Mussoorie, the village will amaze you with its hanging golden corns in each house.

For the love of Trekking:

Pari Tibba – also known as the Burnt Hill, as it has been struck repeatedly by lightening. The trekking stretch starts from the Woodstock School. Walking this circuit in April is particularly special, with rhododendrons in bloom and the oak in purple new leaf

Bhadraj Forest – The trekking trail of Bhadraj forest and temple leads you through densely forested northern slopes and the southern slopes covered with barren grasslands

Nag Tibba – a trekker’s delight. It presents stunning view of the Bandarpoonch peak, the Gangotri group of peaks, the Kedarnath peak in the north, and the Doonvalley and the snow peaks of Chanabang

If you have visited Landour, do let us know some more places that are as beautiful as these.

Thanks for stopping by