Rishikesh, my Happy Place

Some destinations weave themselves into the fabric of our souls, leaving an indelible mark with each visit. For me, that place is Rishikesh – hailed as the Yoga Capital of the World. There’s a certain magic to Rishikesh, an inexplicable allure that draws me back time and again. Is it the sacred waters of the River Ganges, the melodious chimes of temple bells during the evening aarti, the rhythmic chanting of ancient mantras, the quaint cafes offering delectable fare, or perhaps the collective energy that pervades the city? The answer eludes me, but the pull of Rishikesh remains irresistible.

My first trip to Rishikesh was in 2012 with a friend, Ankita. Like typical tourists, we embarked on the quintessential Rishikesh experience – rafting down the river!

Rafting Tales from 2012 🙂

The lively flow of the Ganges renders river rafting an essential experience for any visitor. Booking your rafting slot in advance, either online or in person at one of the numerous tourism outlets, ensures a seamless adventure.

My own venture into rafting was a singular experience, but it left an indelible mark of sheer exhilaration. Yet, Rishikesh offers far more than just adrenaline-pumping activities.

During my subsequent visit in 2013, I encountered a vastly different facet of Rishikesh. On a serene March morning, I stumbled upon ‘The German Bakery,’ a haven for spiritual discourse and meaningful connections. Seated beside me was a captivating Russian woman engaged in a conversation with an Irish acquaintance, extolling the virtues of meditation and yoga in nurturing both mental and physical well-being. Her radiant countenance, illuminated eyes, and the black bindi adorning her forehead harmonized seamlessly with her aura.

As I sipped on herbal tea and savored yak cheese, I found myself entranced by her tales of performing suryanamaskar each morning, immersing herself in the teachings of the renowned spiritual leader Mooji, and mastering Hindi during her brief two-month sojourn.

After about 15 minutes, another girl from Portugal joined their table. As she ordered her herbal tea, she retrieved her guitar and commenced chanting the divine mantra, “Hare Rama Hare Krishna Rama Rama Hare Hare.” Soon, the entire cafe was swept up in the rhythmic sway, clapping hands in unison to the transcendent melody. Caught in the euphoria, I too joined in, feeling the surge of positivity wash over me. It was an enchanting moment, setting the tone for the day ahead and infusing every fiber of my being with joy.

Subsequently, I retreated to the tranquil banks of the River Ganges, where I spent hours in quiet contemplation. The gentle murmur of the water as it cascaded against the rocks, coupled with the serene backdrop of the mountains bathed in the fading daylight, created a scene of unparalleled tranquility.

In 1968, The Beatles embarked on a transformative journey to Rishikesh, drawn by the promise of Transcendental Meditation training at the Maharishi Mahesh Yogi ashram nestled in the Swargashram area. Interestingly, my own introduction to meditation occurred in 2004, on my 14th birthday, under the tutelage of one of Maharishi Mahesh Yogi’s ashrams. Therefore, when I learned of the legendary ashram visited by The Beatles, I felt compelled to revisit the sacred grounds.

It was at this very ashram that The Beatles found inspiration, penning a remarkable 48 songs, many of which would later find a place in the iconic White Album.

Picture Source: Daily Mail

The ashram, once teeming with life and spiritual fervor, now stands abandoned and in disrepair, yet it remains open to the public, albeit for a fee, and is widely known as the Beatles Ashram.

Upon entering the premises, my gaze was immediately drawn to the meditation caves, evoking a sense of anticipation as if stepping into an entirely different realm. Spread across the ashram are approximately 80 such caves, originally constructed to accommodate residents and facilitate their meditation practices.

As I ventured deeper into the ashram, I encountered the living quarters, each adorned with captivating graffiti that seemed to narrate its own story. These buildings, now weathered by the passage of time and embraced by encroaching foliage, whispered tales of bygone days.

Standing amidst the remnants of human habitation, I couldn’t help but feel the palpable connection between this place and the timeless melodies penned by the Beatles. It dawned on me that the inspiration for many of their iconic songs found its roots in the mystical ambiance of this very place and its enchanting surroundings.

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Atop these living quarters, I encountered intriguing egg-shaped structures that served as graffiti-adorned water towers. Instantly drawn to their peculiar charm, I found myself irresistibly compelled to explore further. Each of these structures boasted a ladder on its exterior, leading to an open aperture at its summit. And yes, I couldn’t resist the temptation—I climbed them all!

Perched atop these towers, with the world spread out beneath me, I experienced a profound sense of exhilaration. It was as if I had ascended to the very pinnacle of existence, basking in the essence of the moment.

The atmosphere of the ashram evoked a unique energy, one that enveloped me in a medley of emotions difficult to articulate. You truly have to experience it firsthand to grasp its ineffable essence. Growing up, I had often watched videos of Maharishi Mahesh Yogi ji on the Maharishi channel, a memory now accessible on YouTube as well. His gentle greeting of ‘Jai Guru Dev,’ meaning ‘Hail Divine Teacher,’ was a familiar refrain. As I stood within the hallowed halls of what was once a lecture hall, I could almost envision him, a visionary figure of the 1960s, imparting his wisdom to eager disciples. Today, this sacred space is affectionately referred to as the Beatles Cathedral—an homage to the transformative impact of their time spent here.

As I wandered through the labyrinthine corridors of the ashram, the walls whispered stories of inspiration and love. Adorned with vibrant graffiti, they served as a canvas for the musings of both aspiring souls and star-crossed lovers alike. The timeless melodies of The White Album echoed through the halls, evoking a sense of nostalgia and reverence. Amongst the myriad hues and shapes, I couldn’t help but notice declarations of love etched into the walls—a testament to the enduring allure of this sacred space.

It’s truly awe-inspiring to realize that this serene sanctuary was once a haven for the flower power generation, where Beatles enthusiasts paid homage to their beloved band. Even now, amidst the tranquil surroundings, one can sense the lingering echoes of that bygone era.

For those planning to visit, I highly recommend renting a bike to reach the ashram, located approximately 10 kilometers from Tapovan. Additionally, it’s advisable not to wander alone, as the area is known for its mischievous monkey inhabitants—you wouldn’t want to lose your way or have a run-in with them!

Where to eat:

Little Buddha Café – This tree house styled cafe’s food menu is known to satisfy food cravings and therefore this was next on my itinerary. 

In a city entirely devoted to vegan cuisine, I decided to indulge in a veg pizza topped with pineapple and paired it with a refreshing glass of watermelon juice. As I savored the flavors, I couldn’t help but appreciate the serene view around me.

Be sure to try the Oreo ice cream, served with a delightful combination of pineapples and apples, topped off with rich chocolate sauce. Another must-try is the Mediterranean Pasta Salad, a specialty of this place.

Freedom Café – Famous for Chinese and Italian cuisine, the café gives a perfect view of the river with yogi style cushion and communal seating space. It becomes a trippy place to be after hours.

Bistro Nirava – This is the go-to place in Rishikesh if you’re craving meat during your stay. With its rustic ambiance crafted from bamboo, mud, and clay, it offers a unique dining experience. Be sure to indulge in their delicious pita-falafel platters, pancakes, waffles, and a variety of soul-warming soups.

Things to Do:

Yoga and meditation – My personal favorite and a must-visit is Parmarth Niketen. Situated just 500 meters from Ram Jhula, it stands as one of the largest ashrams in the area. Nestled amidst the serene Himalayan ranges, this tranquil oasis warmly embraces visitors from across the globe. Here, you can find various ashrams and guest houses that offer a wide range of classes and activities.

This picture below is from Jai Uttal’s (an American musician) recent kirtan concert in Parmarth Niketan Ashram

The ashram has been hosting the International Yoga Festival every year since 1999. If interested, you can register for this year’s festival which starts March 1st and goes on until March 7th on the official website –

Register

Picture Source : IYF Official Website

Aarti at Triveni Ghat – Make sure to attend the evening ‘Maha Aarti’ at Triveni Ghat. There’s nothing quite like the sight of earthen lamps floating in the river as the sun sets. Just remember to check the aarti timings in advance so you don’t miss this beautiful experience!

Spa – Ananda Spa is a luxury spa that offers a wide menu of over 80 body treatments through Ayurveda with a Western spa approach. Ananda is the Sanskrit word for ‘bliss’ and this magnificent retreat certainly lives up to its name.

Ananda In The Himalayas

Trek to Kunjapuri Temple –  a Hindu temple devoted to the goddess Sati, who later reincarnated as Goddess Parvati, the consort of Lord Shiva. If you’re a sunrise enthusiast, Kunjapuri Temple is a must-visit destination. Situated at an elevation of 1645 meters, it provides a breathtaking panoramic view of the Himalayan peaks. To reach the temple, you’ll embark on a trek from the Tapovan area in Rishikesh, ascending and descending the hillside, and climbing approximately 300 stairs along the way.

Mountain Biking – You can avail bikes on rent from various bike renting companies or travel agents in Rishikesh. Peddle through the rocky terrains, mud and wood and let the adrenaline flow

River Rafting – One of the most common sports here, rafting goes on for several kilometers along the river and the path is interspersed with rapids

Bungee Jumping – If you want to feel your heart pound losing yourself in the air from a height of more than 83 meters above the ground, then you need to go to Jumping Heights, Mohanchatti and try the Bungee Jump

Giant Swing – Jumping Heights also offers Giant Swing from the same Bungee platform. I had to bring myself to jump for that first second, after which the ropes smoothly swung me like a pendulum – definitely something one must try!

Flying Fox – You can opt for Flying Fox which is a zipline activity over the white water of the Ganges offering a beautiful view of the foothills of Himalayas.

My cherished moment in Rishikesh involves sitting by the banks of the Ganges, letting my feet soak in the river’s cool waters. As I gaze upon the enchanting night sky, the tranquil atmosphere is accompanied by the melodious chiming of temple bells and the soothing chants of mantras echoing in the air.

Rishikesh is a treasure trove of spiritual and natural wonders. Here are a few more places you might want to explore:

Neer Garh Waterfall: A serene waterfall nestled amidst lush greenery, perfect for a refreshing dip or a peaceful picnic.

Neelkanth Mahadev Temple: Situated amidst the dense forests of the Himalayas, this ancient temple dedicated to Lord Shiva offers breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains.

Rajaji National Park: Embark on a thrilling wildlife safari in this national park, home to a diverse range of flora and fauna including elephants, tigers, leopards, and various bird species.

Vashishta Cave: Discover the tranquil cave where the sage Vashishta is believed to have meditated. It’s a serene spot for introspection and meditation.

Each of these places offers a unique experience and adds to the charm of Rishikesh. Enjoy exploring!

If you wish to travel up the mountains and explore a beautiful hill station while you’re here, you must visit Landour which is about 80 km from Rishikesh. Read my blog on it here

How to Reach Rishikesh

By Air – Jolly Grant airport at Dehradun is the nearest airport to Rishikesh which is approximately 35 kilometres away. Hire a cab from there.

By Bus – Buses depart in the morning and late evening from the Kashmere Gate ISBT, New Delhi for Rishikesh every day. You can choose from a regular, deluxe, or luxurious coach.

By Train – The nearest railhead to Rishikesh is in Haridwar which is approximately 25 kilometers away. Take a bus or hire a cab from there.

By Road/Self Drive – If you like road trips, you can opt for this too, as it is connected to other cities via the National Highway 58. The drive from Delhi to Rishikesh would take approximately 6 to 7 hours.

If you’re aware of other must-visit spots in Rishikesh, please feel free to share them with me!

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